Showing posts with label hotel restaurant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hotel restaurant. Show all posts

Monday, April 11, 2016

My 30 Minutes with Nobu


Published on Manila Bulletin Lifestyle, March 27, 2016

MY 30 MINUTES WITH NOBU




“How many years did you live in Taipei? Do you speak Mandarin? Where did you learn the Philippine language?”

That was how my one-on-one interview with THE Nobu Matsuhisa started – the world-famous chef asking a small town girl, who really just loves to eat, questions about herself.

He showed genuine interest in getting to know me, and after our thirty minutes together, I felt like we’ve been friends for a decade, or since 2006 when I had my first ever Nobu experience at the InterContinental Hong Kong.

All my succeeding Nobu meals gave me the same comforting, warm and fuzzy feeling, no matter where I was in the world, through dishes that were familiar yet exciting, simple yet packed with flavor, coupled with service that was seamless and caring. “The Nobu Experience.” I nodded animatedly, fully able to relate when the 67-year old chef assured with pride that every diner enjoys the same high-quality food and hospitality in all his restaurants, whether he is in Cape Town, Budapest, or Australia.

It was surreal that this gentle and childlike soul I was face-to-face with was the same brilliant man behind the success of 40 restaurants and 2 hotels across 5 continents. The numbers are still growing year after year.

When I mentioned that my questions would be more personal rather than business-related because I wanted to get to know the real Nobuyuki underneath the award-studded chef’s uniform, he quickly replied, with his eyes twinkling, “Personal? Okay, I have one wife and two children. But only one wife, ok!” Everyone in the room bursted into laughter.

No way. He had a sense of humor, too. Could this man be any more perfect?

Here is the rest of the most enjoyable interview I’ve had in a while. (Plenty hilarious, off-the-record statements omitted. Sorry, guys!)


How would you describe yourself outside of the kitchen?

I am Nobu but I am also a chef. I love making happy to the guests, making happy to my friends, making happy to myself. I travel 300 days in a year because I like to see my teams, my family. Automatically when I come to a Nobu branch, the chefs will ask me when can I come again. It’s like kids asking their father. So I promise to come back again in the same year, that’s why the traveling never stops.


How do you manage your time between work and leisure?

Even when I travel, I exercise. Exercise relaxes me. I take vacations with family usually after New Year’s, maybe 10 days, and also in August. But my vacations get shorter and shorter. First year it was 3 weeks, then last year 2 weeks, and most recently just 10 days.


What is your favorite city?

My home is Los Angeles. I have my house, my first restaurant Matsuhisa, my wife and my daughter. Los Angeles is most comfortable city. But I also built a house in Japan, one hour from Tokyo, in Hakone. My house has a hot spring, I go there during vacations. I don’t see anybody, only my family and nature and just relax.


What is one thing you can eat everyday?

I love to eat rice but now I worry about eating too much because I gain weight. Rice, I love it. I like to eat it once a day. I love not only Japanese rice, but also Chinese rice, Thai rice, Korean rice, any rice dishes like fried rice or congee.


One food you will never learn to like?


I never learn to like strange food. Example, every time I go to Hong Kong in January or February, the Chinese chef will recommend the snake soup to keep the body warm during winter. But I had bad experience with snakes. When I lived in Peru and during a camping trip in the amazon, somebody caught a fish and grilled it and asked me to eat it. He said it was eel but I know my fish. After biting, it was so… [made facial expression and a few sounds expressing his disgust]. After this experience I don’t like snake forever, even when people say snake soup is good and it makes the body strong. But no, thank you.


Most memorable meal?

I travel to many countries. If it’s about good meals, I have so much memory I cannot mention just one restaurant. But for me the most enjoyable meal is about passion. I don’t care about the visual and the taste, but if somebody makes only for me like when my wife cooks for me or my daughter cooks, this is most impressive for me. My granddaughter who is 5 years old, I taught her how to make sushi. Last Christmas, she made sushi for the whole family. This kind of meal is most memorable to me.


What would you be if you were not a chef?

I like to paint. Not oil, but something lighter like watercolor or pastel. I’m a chef. I like to use white plate as my canvas. I take fish or vegetable and the sauce will be my color, all natural, simple. I like to make art on the plate.


How has being a famous chef changed you as a person?

When I come, people ask me if they can take pictures and I never say no. Sometimes it’s uncomfortable. I like to stay home, I like to relax, but I never say no. There is no privacy, but no choice, this is my life. But also I realize, hey people know me, so I am also very much proud of myself.


Did you ever imagine that Nobu Hotel and Restaurant would one day have a home in Manila?

Yes, Manila has beautiful peoples. The culture and economy are not like Tokyo or New York, but this type of city I like to introduce the food from my restaurant, I like to introduce the hospitality from my hotel. Madonna said a good quote. She said, “If Nobu opens in some city, the city is going to be changed.”


And in turn, what has our city introduced to you? Do you have a favorite Filipino dish?

I do not have enough time to go around yet, but I have so many Filipino chefs in my restaurants. Even Mike, the head chef in Nobu Manila, came from Las Vegas and now he is back home. Sometimes my Filipino chef in New York will make Filipino food for staff meal. I like milkfish, but it has so many bones. [Laughs] I tried it sautéed, fried, and in soup. They say you can have it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


You don’t look a day over 60. What is your secret to staying young and happy?

Age is just a number. Age means mentally and physically. That’s why I like to have young generation around me. I like talking to young people because they teach me new things like using the iPhone, what is most fashionable now, they give me a lot of information. This is mentally. Then physically, I exercise.


What is your biggest regret in life?

I made a lot of accidents and mistakes in my life but I learned from them. My experiences made me the person I am now. That’s why I always say to young people, don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Just do it. Make mistakes and learn from them. Always do things with passion. Without passion, there will never be success. I don’t have any regrets.


Your greatest success?

I am most proud of my restaurants - 40 in 5 continents over 29 years. I am proud that my Nobu family is growing and I can give opportunities to next generation chefs.


How do you want to be remembered?

I like to think of myself as a chef, but let’s ask my staff Mike, Kenny, Marlon and Hiro what they think I am. I would like to hear. [Chuckles]


Marlon Hirsh, Kenny Hernandez, Mike de Jesus, Nobu Matsuhisa, Hiro Tahara


Mike de Jesus (Head Chef, Nobu Restaurant Manila): To me, Nobu is my mentor, somebody who I set my standards upon and I try to follow what he emulates. He’s a very humble man. Everybody these days sees all these celebrity chefs on TV, living extravagant lives, but when you meet Nobu, he’s just down-to-earth and that’s very humbling, to see somebody who has amassed such a career and yet be able to communicate with him, work with him, talk to him. It has set the tone for my career.


Kenny Hernandez (Manager, Nobu Restaurant Manila): It’s not just in the kitchen, it’s the details in the whole restaurant - how things should look, the style of service, the hospitality, the emotion that you feel when you enjoy a meal. You see the culture that was built around Nobu and then eventually you understand that this was started from one person and his philosophy that was passed on from his family. For me, it’s learning his attention to detail, his creativity, and then how everyone that is part of the family, who you work with everyday for years, they really become that family to you.


Marlon Hirsh (General Manager, Nobu Hotel Manila): Nobu is a name that can be larger than life, so to have him be grounded and down-to-earth and someone you can approach and talk to, you get the best of both worlds. You get to see the man who created the culinary empire and yet he’s still very human. You still can relate to him and he relates back. He’s someone you aspire to be.


Hiro Tahara (CEO, Nobu Restaurants and Hotels): Nobu is also a father figure. We call ourselves Nobu family. He always tells us our success is his success. We can talk to him about personal stuff as well. How he lives, how he treats us, that became our company philosophy, his very humble ways. We always need to act like him. How he treats us like family is also how we treat our staff like family. We look to him as a boss, a business owner, father and mentor.


Nobu: A lot of people congratulate me for my success, but my final success is the success of people around me. Even when I’m getting old, my family is still growing. My staff is my family. If one day people come up to me and say, “Nobu, thank you so much. I worked with you and now I did it.” This is what I like to hear from my team. Their success is my success. This is true story.




Nobu and I


Nobu touched me that morning with his humility, dedication and gentle spirit, and again, that evening with an 8-course dinner that he personally prepared for the luckiest people of Manila. From the appetizer of toro tartare with caviar, to a beautifully roasted Chilean sea bass in a truffle corn aji amarillo like I’ve never had before, the perfectly grilled Japanese A5 wagyu, and miso cappuccino that I inhaled in 60 seconds… each course enveloped me to the deepest depths of my stomach in Nobu’s heart and passion.


Nobu Restaurant, City of Dreams Manila



Toro Tartare with Caviar



Roasted Chilean sea bass in a truffle corn ahi amarillo



Grilled Japanese A5 wagyu



Miso Cappuccino



Pepper Teehankee, Charisse Chuidian
Micky Fenix, Jin Lovestoeat, Monica Tiosejo, Sheree Chua



Nobu Restaurant is located at Level 1 Nobu Hotel, City of Dreams Manila, Asean Avenue corner Roxas Boulevard, Entertainment City, Parañaque. Tel: 02 691-2882



Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Four Hands Dinner by Chef Mauro Colagreco and William Mahi at The Tasting Room ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥






Tasting Excellence at The Tasting Room
A very rare four hands dinner by Chefs Mauro Colagreco and William Mahi






I didn’t know what to expect from the Argentinian-born Italian-Spanish chef who proudly claims he is Basque, honed his skills in France, first under Bernard Loiseau at Côte d’Or in Saulieu, and then under Alain Passard at L’Arpege in Paris.

I only knew Chef Mauro Colagreco was awarded his first Michelin star just 10 months after he opened Mirazur in Menton on the French Riviera, and was named “Chef of the Year” by the Gault Millau guide not long after. His second Michelin star came in 2012, along with the 24th ranking in San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Mirazur is presently the 11th best in the world and the number one in France.

I suspected the chef must be very, very good. But nothing could have prepared me for the excellence I experienced in every single dish he served at the Tasting Room.



Amuse bouche of bacon chip, truffle goat cheese with bacon crisp,
cepes jelly, and foie gras lollipop



My first spoonful of his corn textura, none of the stars and accolades mattered anymore. To me, Mauro Colagreco was simply my newest favorite chef. I still dream about that bowl of sweet corn with farofa chips, polenta, freshly shaved truffles, and a surprise egg yolk confit hiding under the delicious mess. Its gooeyness added another dimension to the airy, creamy, crispy party going on in my mouth. It was sublime.


Corn Textura



Surprise egg yolk inside



 Dom Perignon 2004



And then came the visually stunning plate of wild salmon trout, French mussels, sea urchin espuma, oyster leaves, salmon roe, lemon, and lime zest. Eaten together, it was all the salty, briny, sweet goodness of the sea.



Wild Salmon Trout



Louis Jadot Meursault 2013



It was not my first time to enjoy the cookery of Chef William Mahi, I had relished a great number of his dishes before this dinner, and I knew I was in very capable hands. The chef de cuisine of The Tasting Room after all boasts 19 impressive years of culinary experience in Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, Lyon, Beirut, Shanghai, and Istanbul. He was awarded Best Apprentice of France in 1998, Running Chef of the Year in China for 2011, and Best Hotel Restaurant in Turkey for 2012. Before coming to Manila, he earned two Michelin stars as chef de cuisine for Spondi in Athens.

I never had fish like the pagre in our next course. I don’t know how a piece of sea bream prepared in the simplest way could taste so luscious, but apparently, Chef Mauro has mastered the skill. The meat was pristine and moist, and served with a side of intoxicating black garlic puree, sweet lily bulb, a single stalk of charred leek, and a special béarnaise made with licorice. I noticed the chef’s use of very few elements in his dishes, giving focus on bringing out each ingredient’s flavor. What a painfully simple yet incredibly exquisite plate!



 Pagre



Perfectly moist and pristine 



 Catena Alta Chardonnay 2010



Not to be outdone was the milk-fed veal filet that followed. Impossibly tender, clean-tasting, and pink but nary a trace of blood, the generous portion of meat was as warm and comforting as a giant bear hug. The purple artichoke on artichoke puree and bagna cauda were beautiful accompaniments to quite possibly the best piece of veal I’ve ever had.



 Veal Filet



As tender as a newborn baby!



 Michelle Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio 2009



Chef William’s lollipops were an absolute delight! The ball of passion fruit and mango sorbet gave my palate a refreshing cleanse, and the lemon sorbet made me beg for more.


Lollipop



Dessert was called Naranjo en Flor or “orange blossom” in Spanish. Tangy orange sorbet tamed by a nutty almond milk espuma, and made more exciting with the crunch of the nuts. Taken together with the slight bitterness of saffron cream and sweet and crisp broken crystalline pieces, it was a fresh, light, and fantastic ending to an incredible dinner.



Naranjo en Flor



Antinori Muffato della Sala 2008



It was evident how chefs Mauro and William share the same principles in the kitchen, championing quality ingredients and preferring not to do too much to the food to celebrate its true flavors. The result is a confident, genuine, fresh, and delectable cuisine that reflects the qualities I admire most in the two chefs—warm, unassuming, and earnest.


With Chefs Mauro Colagreco and William Mahi



Before leaving the restaurant that evening, I wanted to personally thank Mauro again for the incredible experience, but was told he had already retired to his room to spend time with his son Valentine. Now on my bucket list: Mirazur in Menton, France.

Until then, I am most happy to enjoy exquisite dinners by Chef William at The Tasting Room.









The Tasting Room is located at Crown Towers, City of Dreams Manila, Aseana corner Macapagal Avenue.
Tel: 02 800-8080






Friday, September 4, 2015

72 Hours in Singapore


Published in Manila Bulletin Lifestyle, September 3, 2015

What to eat, see, and do, eat, and eat




I live for the long weekend and recently, we were lucky to enjoy quite a few. While most people hopped over to Japan and Hong Kong, I revisited the Lion City. As a gastro-tourist (meaning I travel to eat, eat, and eat), I was magnificently enamored by the city’s offerings and even brought home with me a few extra pounds to prove it. Eating is a national pastime in Singapore and when you’re there, do as the locals do—eat! Although I adore Singapore’s iconic dishes and strongly believe that one must devour each one of them on one’s first trip to the city, there is really so much more to eat than chili crabs, chicken rice, prawn mee, and bah kut teh. Here is a guide on how to plan your next long weekend in the city. Enjoy, overeat, and do not think about the waistline lah!



FRIDAY

Dinner at Burnt Ends


Drop off your bags at the hotel and head over to this gourmet barbecue destination with bad-ass wood-fired ovens at its heart and soul. Start off with beef marmalade and pickles on toast, small bites that explode in your mouth with big, big flavors. Split the famous Sanger, a sweet and tangy 10-hour pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw and chipotle aioli in toasted brioche bun, and follow it up with the main event—a masterfully grilled rump cap that is so tender and packed with beef umami. You are allowed to eat all the bone marrow resting on top of the steak as long as you promise to order veggies. I recommend the charred leeks covered in brown butter and hazelnuts. Be warned that Burnt Ends is a tiny place with a long waitlist, but the beauty of it is you have all night and the whole weekend. 



 Beef marmalade and pickles



Rump cap, burnt onions, bone marrow


Burnt Ends is located at 20 Teck Lim Road, Singapore. 
Tel: +65 6224 3933



SATURDAY

Breakfast at Ho Kee Porridge at Maxwell Food Centre


I make sure to always try something different when traveling and in this case, frog congee first thing in the morning. On your tray will be a hearty pot of tasty gong bao-style frog legs (They taste like chicken, promise!) that you ladle over a separate bowl of slow-cooked rice porridge. Wait a few seconds for the thick and smooth carbs to absorb all the flavors and then, dig in. I really don’t know how much more delicious your morning can get. 



Claypot frog legs



Rice porridge


Ho Kee Porridge is at Stall #01-45 Maxwell Food Centre, Singapore



Lunch at Candlenut


If I live in Singapore, this is the first place I will bring visiting friends to, not only because Peranakan cuisine is a good introduction to the diverse cultures and flavors of Singapore, but because dining at Candlenut is like enjoying a homecooked meal at your grandmother’s house. Every dish I had—from the ngoh hiang, wing bean salad, lamb rendang, and gula melaka prawns to the buah keluak wagyu—was made with so much love and care. I know because I tasted comfort and devotion in Chef Malcolm Lee’s creations, two very rare things to find nowadays despite the unbelievable surge in new dining establishments. Desserts are heavenly, the chendol cream and textures of coconut are not to be missed. I urge you to order all the dishes I mentioned, and I apologize in advance for causing you to eat more rice than you should. 


Ngoh Hiang



Lamb rendang


Candlenut is at 331 New Bridge Road, #01-03 Dorsett Residences, Singapore 
Tel: +65 8121 4107



Dinner at Restaurant Labyrinth


 This is a meal that will change your life forever. Chef LG Han takes classic Singaporean favorites and transforms them into something you will never in your wildest dreams imagine. His laksa comes in a bowl without broth, with noodles that are actually coconut jelly, the soup dehydrated into laksa snow, and a fat and creamy oyster resting on top of the pile. When eaten altogether, it is one of the most incredible noodle dishes. He applies the same playfulness to Hainanese chicken rice, beef satay, pisang goreng, and chendol dessert, which comes in the form of xiao long bao and is served in a dimsum basket complete with “gula melaka” vinegar and chopsticks! The winning dish for me, however, is the Singaporean chili crab course that is designed to look like a beach, with deep fried soft shell crab resting on sand made with mantou crumbs, and shares the space with seaweeds, a shell-shaped chili crab sauce ice cream (one word: Genius!), and prawn bisque foam, on a blue-colored plate that resembles the sea. The dishes at Labyrinth scream confidence and make up my most unforgettable meal this trip.


Laksa



Chili crab


Restaurant Labyrinth is at 8 Raffles Avenue, #02-23 Esplanade Mall, Singapore
Tel: +65 6223 4098



Breakfast at Tiong Bahru Bakery


There is something about the sight of freshly baked carbs and the smell of freshly brewed coffee that complete the morning. A friendly warning though: there are too many temptations inside this house of sin. Grab a kouign amann (Skip all the others no matter how devilishly handsome they look!) and wash down the flaky, buttery layers of the Breton pastry with a cup of joe specially crafted for you by Common Man Coffee Roasters. 


Carbs heaven!!!



Kouign amann


Tiong Bahru Bakery is at 56 Eng Hoon Street, #01-70, Singapore 
Tel: +65 62203430



Lunch at Corner House


I imagine how even more romantic it is at night inside the black-and-white colonial bungalow that houses the new restaurant of Chef Jason Tan. The talented young chef serves gastro-botanical cuisine in the midst of the city’s most famous garden, where you enjoy pretty plate after pretty plate of his exquisite creations. To this day, I still think about the Spanish Carabinero prawn served with the most gorgeous tomatoes, each treated uniquely, my favorite being the one marinated in honey and Thai basil. And the onions, oh God!!! I’ve always enjoyed the humble vegetable but his Cevennes onion destroyed it for me forever. I can never eat onions again without secretly fantasizing about his baked onion cup filled with sous-vide egg, onion puree, and black truffles with his onion tart, topped with parmesan, his dehydrated onion chips, and the most amazing onion tea that is a harmony of cold and warm, sweet and savory, silky and creamy. It gave me pleasure too great to bear. Do not leave until someone gives you a salted egg macaron. It is one of the best things I ate this year and if anyone offers me a box of 12, I will scramble for a seat on the next flight to Singapore. 



Carabinero prawns and tomatoes



Chef Jason Tan's iterations of Cevennes onion


Corner House is at 1 Cluny Road, Singapore Botanic Gardens, E J H Corner House
Tel: +65 6469 1000



Dinner at My Little Spanish Place


I know what you’re all thinking. Who eats Spanish food in Singapore?! But the cochinillo asado at this unassuming little Spanish place is even better than the one I had at the world-famous Meson de Candido in Segovia, the Land of cochinillo. Chef Edward Esmero, who proudly hails from Batangas, has perfected the art of roasting suckling pigs, resulting in an extra crunchy skin and the most tender, moist, and milky meat. His garlic shrimps made me feel like I have never eaten a proper gambas al ajillo before. Aside from the usual ingredients of olive oil, garlic, and chili, he added—drum roll, please!—shrimp head juice into the mix! I’ve never had anything like it before and took pleasure in mopping up the dangerously addicting sauce with bread. But cochinillo and gambas aren’t just the reasons to visit My Little Spanish Place. It is also the only restaurant in Singapore that carries whole legs of Joselito, Cinco Jotas, Sierra Mayor, and Fermin jamon. 



Cochinillo asado



Gambas al ajillo


My Little Spanish Place is at 619 Bukit Timah Road, Singapore
Tel: +65 6463 2810



SUNDAY

 Breakfast at Ya Kun Kaya Toast


You must not leave Singapore without having an authentic local breakfast of kaya toast with thick slab of butter, soft-boiled eggs swimming in soy sauce and sprinkled with white pepper powder, and washed down with your choice of kopi or tea. There are multiple branches of this popular breakfast chain across the city, but nothing beats the experience at its very first shop in Chinatown. So old school chic, and according to local friends, still the best outlet. 


Soft boiled eggs



Kaya toast


Ya Kun Kaya Toast is located at 18 China Street, Far East Square
Tel: +65 6438 3638



Lunch at Tippling Club


There were purple gluhwein bubbles on my foie gras plate. Whoa! Only the playful and imaginative Chef Ryan Clift can think of something so whimsical, as proven again and again by the never-ending, fun little snacks he served before the mains. Imagine fish on seaweed cracker, pancetta on manchego pillow, red bell peppers coated in squid ink (that you eat with a tong), Singaporean curry with rice crispies in a jar, margherita-flavored fried beef tendon, basil “lava lamp” shot, and hay smoked quail egg that arrives in no less than a makeshift nest. I’ve never seen a prettier snow crab dish wearing a crown of onion ring adorned with edible flowers, or a more handsome Mangalica pork collar blanketed in milk skin and freshly shaved black truffles. I let out a giggle as I popped the cheesecake “pills” into my mouth. Go to Tippling Club with an open mind and be in for a pleasant treat. 



Snow crab, onion ring



Mangalica pork collar, milk skin, truffles


Tippling Club is located at 38 Tanjong Pagar Rd, Singapore
Tel: +65 6475 2217



Dinner at Jaan


The newly appointed Chef Kirk Westaway of Jaan proved to be the biggest surprise of my trip. From beginning to end, he impressed me with his quiet genius, with little snacks of wagyu tartare, fish and chips, and foie gras macaron to the incredibly sweet and luscious, stuffed heirloom tomato with basil sorbet and burrata espuma, and finally, the piece de resistance—his signature forest pigeon with the breast slow-roasted to a beautiful medium rare. The tender fillet is covered simply in chives and is served with white polenta, grated Hokkaido corn, and a rich and decadent cromesquis of pigeon heart and liver. Each course was unpretentious, brilliant, and most importantly, delicious. I was at Jaan for lunch, but I am recommending it for dinner so you can fully appreciate the vibrant and stunning views of Singapore at night. (Don’t forget to request for a window seat!) As you enjoy your roasted French peach dessert and petit fours, I know you are already planning your next trip back. 



Heirloom tomatoes, basil sorbet, burrata espuma



Forest pigeon, polenta, corn, cromesquis


Jaan is located at 2 Stamford Road, Swissotel The Stamford, Level 70, Equinox Complex
Tel: +65 6837 3322


For more information on what to see and do in Singapore, visit www.yoursingapore.com

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